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Why, When and How to use "In-Hoop Lace Inserting" Technique - Page 2
Detailed Instruction
1. Select suitable lace designs and a garment. We picked up an old denim jacket, and decided to decorate it with butterfly lace inserts. We'll demonstrate the entire process of making the first insert on this jacket's back. Here's how the jacket looked first:
2. To put a round butterfly lace design in the very middle of the back, we located that middle by measuring the jacket back and making a vertical line across the middle of the back. (The mark is washable). Of course, this step will be a bit different for each new project.
3. Print the paper template of your design and put it over the garment for a moment, to make sure that the design size is okay. Then mark the horizontal line of the design template. Be sure to mark it so that the vertical and horizontal lines meet exactly in the middle of your design.
4. Hoop 2-3 layers of water-soluble stabilizer. (Different brands require different number of layers.)
Attention: It may seem to you that one layer of strong WSB is enough, but many machines start breaking thread terribly when only one layer on WSB is used. We've noticed that an extra layer of water-soluble backing often solves this problem. So avoid trying to save an extra layer, even if your WSB is very strong.
Make sure that the WSB can't move, even slightly. If your hoop is far from perfect and holds fabric badly, consider purchasing a new hoop with special metal spins. This is quite a small expense, and it can take your embroidery to a much higher level. Most machine dealers now carry these wonderful new hoops with spins. (As a temporary solution, you can wrap a paper towel around one old hoop frame, to increase friction and prevent your backing from moving.) On our photo, you see a fabric-type water-soluble backing. It looks, feels, hoops and embroiders just like fabric, but then washes away easily.
For lace, it's better than the all film-type of water-soluble backings because it doesn't stretch and it�s not slippery. It holds better in the hoop, and better supports lace designs through the entire embroidery process.
5. Draw horizontal and vertical lines on the hooped WSB, exactly in the middle. Then insert at least 3 thumb tacks/pins from the bottom. This is a small, but helpful trick that allows VERY precise positioning of the garment while doing hoopless embroidery. The tacks will help you center the garment and secure it on exactly the right spot. One tack/pin should be in the very middle, one on the vertical line mark and one on the horizontal line mark.
6. Apply a generous amount of temporary spray adhesive over the very edge of the hooped water-soluble backing. (The middle should be free of adhesive; otherwise, it may be more difficult to cut a hole in the fabric later). Position the garment exactly according to the marks on the stabilizer and on the garment itself. If everything is okay, the pins should come through at the center, horizontal and vertical lines on the garment. When it's positioned correctly, press the garment over the stabilizer, to make it stick well. The spray adhesive should hold the garment in place. Only then remove the tacks and insert the hoop into embroidery machine.
7. Embroider the first thread of the lace design. This should be a running stitch. Its purpose is to outline the area of fabric where you should cut out a hole for the lace insert.
8. Using scissors with sharp blades cut out the piece of fabric inside the outline. Be careful not to damage the water-soluble backing. It should remain where it is, safe and sound. Here's how the whole thing should look after you cut a hole in the fabric:
9. Insert the hoop back into your machine and embroider the rest of lace design, following the thread change list. Here are a few photos "in process":
10. When you've embroidered all the inserts you want, wash away the water-soluble backing in warm water. If you want the lace to be as soft as possible, you may even leave the item in warm water for half an hour or so, to make sure that all of the water-soluble substance dissolves.
Dry your project carefully by spreading it flat on a towel, and enjoy the results! See how cool our finished jacket looks:
Many of our lace designs support this in-hoop-insertion technique. Please visit the links below to see these design collections:
Butterfly Lace Medallions
Chestnut Lace
Rose Lace Inserts
Cyclamens Lace
Daffodils Lace
Daffodils Book Cover
Dantela Lace Blocks
Iris Lace
Poppies Lace
Romantic Lace Medallions
Rose Lace for Lady
Rose Lace for Table
Spider Lace
1. Select suitable lace designs and a garment. We picked up an old denim jacket, and decided to decorate it with butterfly lace inserts. We'll demonstrate the entire process of making the first insert on this jacket's back. Here's how the jacket looked first:
2. To put a round butterfly lace design in the very middle of the back, we located that middle by measuring the jacket back and making a vertical line across the middle of the back. (The mark is washable). Of course, this step will be a bit different for each new project.
3. Print the paper template of your design and put it over the garment for a moment, to make sure that the design size is okay. Then mark the horizontal line of the design template. Be sure to mark it so that the vertical and horizontal lines meet exactly in the middle of your design.
4. Hoop 2-3 layers of water-soluble stabilizer. (Different brands require different number of layers.)
Attention: It may seem to you that one layer of strong WSB is enough, but many machines start breaking thread terribly when only one layer on WSB is used. We've noticed that an extra layer of water-soluble backing often solves this problem. So avoid trying to save an extra layer, even if your WSB is very strong.
Make sure that the WSB can't move, even slightly. If your hoop is far from perfect and holds fabric badly, consider purchasing a new hoop with special metal spins. This is quite a small expense, and it can take your embroidery to a much higher level. Most machine dealers now carry these wonderful new hoops with spins. (As a temporary solution, you can wrap a paper towel around one old hoop frame, to increase friction and prevent your backing from moving.) On our photo, you see a fabric-type water-soluble backing. It looks, feels, hoops and embroiders just like fabric, but then washes away easily.
For lace, it's better than the all film-type of water-soluble backings because it doesn't stretch and it�s not slippery. It holds better in the hoop, and better supports lace designs through the entire embroidery process.
5. Draw horizontal and vertical lines on the hooped WSB, exactly in the middle. Then insert at least 3 thumb tacks/pins from the bottom. This is a small, but helpful trick that allows VERY precise positioning of the garment while doing hoopless embroidery. The tacks will help you center the garment and secure it on exactly the right spot. One tack/pin should be in the very middle, one on the vertical line mark and one on the horizontal line mark.
6. Apply a generous amount of temporary spray adhesive over the very edge of the hooped water-soluble backing. (The middle should be free of adhesive; otherwise, it may be more difficult to cut a hole in the fabric later). Position the garment exactly according to the marks on the stabilizer and on the garment itself. If everything is okay, the pins should come through at the center, horizontal and vertical lines on the garment. When it's positioned correctly, press the garment over the stabilizer, to make it stick well. The spray adhesive should hold the garment in place. Only then remove the tacks and insert the hoop into embroidery machine.
7. Embroider the first thread of the lace design. This should be a running stitch. Its purpose is to outline the area of fabric where you should cut out a hole for the lace insert.
8. Using scissors with sharp blades cut out the piece of fabric inside the outline. Be careful not to damage the water-soluble backing. It should remain where it is, safe and sound. Here's how the whole thing should look after you cut a hole in the fabric:
9. Insert the hoop back into your machine and embroider the rest of lace design, following the thread change list. Here are a few photos "in process":
10. When you've embroidered all the inserts you want, wash away the water-soluble backing in warm water. If you want the lace to be as soft as possible, you may even leave the item in warm water for half an hour or so, to make sure that all of the water-soluble substance dissolves.
Dry your project carefully by spreading it flat on a towel, and enjoy the results! See how cool our finished jacket looks:
Many of our lace designs support this in-hoop-insertion technique. Please visit the links below to see these design collections: